It's raining men?

Fulbrighter number 3 is here! So the 6 of us are all squeezed together in Meredith and Anthony's 2 bedroom apartment ... we even squeezed in their little Corolla (including little Amelia in her carseat!) on our way to a cafe after dinner. I'm sure some of you are wondering why I haven't blogging about all the cool things I've been seeing, historical forts and museums and whatnot ... however, when one is a Fulbright student/scholar, one is essentially a resident of the host country for the year. My second day, I ditched my Bradt travel guide to Oman (geared more towards tourists), and happily invested in the Explorer's Complete Resident's Guide to Oman. I suppose it will take me a week or so to get everything straight: phone, car, housing, classes, etc. And once all that has settled, I will be completely ready to sit back and enjoy life in Oman! I haven't even been in regular contact with my Omani contacts made through SQCC or been to Muscat proper and the bustling metropolis that is downtown (Al-Khuwair, where I am currently is a lovely residential area and quite peaceful ... maybe I'll end up here permanently) ... but I keep telling myself that it's only my 3rd day here; I have 13 months to spend in this country, I just don't want to rush and do things all at once. Besides, I feel like once I commence my Fulbright research with the Omani Women's Association, I'll have a lot more to talk about being immersed in Omani society. Right now, I'm still in the Western "bubble;" which has its perks, but I realize that I do need to break out of that bubble and experience something new.

When I tell people from home about my plans to research and live here -- by myself -- for more than a year, worry penetrates their faces. Would I, as a woman, be able to drive? Do I have to wear the veil? Can I interact with the men in Oman?

Yes. No. Yes. (Quick story about the driving: The Washington Diplomat interviewed H.E. Ambassador Al-Mughairy, who recounted a story when someone asked her if women can drive in Oman. She thought it to be a silly question and laughed... Consider the question, when she is the first woman ambassador from the Arab world to the US ... )

Sometimes I feel like I stick out like a sore thumb wandering around shopping areas ... there are a lot of FIlipinos working here in Muscat, so many of them are behind counters or working for wealthy [ex-pat] families, or serving me in restaurants. So it puts me in an odd position when people glance and notice that I am of Philippine origin but with the way that I carry myself and where I go, I am not your typical FIlipina living Muscat. However, the thing that I am most thankful for is that the men do not accost me when I go walking down the street. I hear horror stories about my single female friends walking down the street in places like Cairo and elsewhere in the Arab world, where they get hoots and hollers and propositions and are even followed (this happened quite a lot in Morocco ... since a group of us traveled together, we looked significantly Western, and therefore were assumed to have quite a bit of money to spend on all things in the souq. When it would get crowded in downtown Tangier, I would scurry away from remarks from Moroccan men walking in your direction, spouting all the English they know hoping to get your attention ("Hello, how are you, are you going to the market, congratulations!"). A girl I knew even got a wedding proposal as she was walking out of a bank!

Here, in Oman, I feel safe in those terms. Of course, the men look, rarely stare (those who really stare seem to be the South Asian ex-pats) and generally mind their own business. I'm sure they're curious, but from what I've experienced so far, they're respectful enough of foreign women not to harrass them or make them feel uncomfortable. Perhaps this is a sub-conscious manifestation of Omani hospitality -- they want you to feel welcomed in their society, and not disrespected. For example, tonight, I accompanied Anthony and Marcus (Liyam's hubby) to Lulu's (oh Lulu's ...) to retrieve a SIM card for Marcus. Omani men dominate the public sphere, and honestly, I've seen more of them doing groceries and shopping for their families than women! Anyway, the kiosk was surrounded by Omani men in their dishdashas and traditional caps (I'm getting quite fond of that strong perfume that they spray on a little tassel off the collar of the dishdasha ... Omanis are very fond of strong scents). I stood in line for a bit with Marcus and felt some looks, but otherwise quite comfortable. Not a word was spoken to me or any rude proposition made -- al-hamdulillah!

With all these men in public places, I'm quite curious to begin some work on my research project and discover where the Omani woman holds her strong point. Don't get me wrong, Omani women are quite visible in the public sphere, but sometimes it's hard to push through the crowds of starch white dishdashas. Perhaps I'll see the Omani woman prominent in the schools, healthcare and community organizations. I've even heard talks about an Omani women's business council or group floating around here in Muscat. Things are moving and shaking for these women and I can't wait to discover just what it is that makes them move and shake!